Mombar.
Yesterday, I visited a restaurant in Astoria that I had never been to before. The occasion was my father’s 69th birthday, and our entire family planned to gather to visit a museum exhibit before exploring Little Egypt, the neighborhood in Astoria.
Although I had frequented Little Egypt several times, I never realized it was the official designation for this area. The ambiance certainly evokes Egypt, with street noises intermingled with Arabic conversations in an Egyptian dialect. As an Egyptian American living in New York City, this familiarity is very comforting and nostalgic.
I had researched a particular restaurant that seemed to have a buzz. When I mentioned it to my roommate Mailiis, she asked if it was the one with just that one guy. Vaguely recalling reading about the owner, I responded, "Maybe?" She confirmed it was Mombar and mentioned the notorious long lines. Prepared for potential difficulty getting a table, I aimed to arrive at the restaurant's opening time.
While strolling through Little Egypt, we passed by shops that stirred memories of Egypt—a fatayer shop with a large glass window where the baker skillfully prepared the dough before filling it with meat, cheese, custard, Nutella, or other fillings.
En route to the restaurant, we encountered stores specializing in nuts and dates, among other quintessentially Egyptian sights.
Suddenly, we arrived at the restaurant. Initially, I didn't notice it because its style contrasted sharply with neighboring establishments. Those shops boasted modern backlit signage or neon lights.
Mombar, however, had a gorgeously decorated exterior and a very old-fashioned door, resembling something you might find in Egypt. As I attempted to open the door, I realized it was locked, as was another nearby entrance.
I double-checked the opening time on Google, growing skeptical about whether the restaurant was actually open. It was 5:11, and Google indicated it should be open by 5. Through the window, I heard the clatter of plates and silverware. "I can hear someone inside," I remarked. I called the restaurant, and the owner assured me they would be opening in two minutes.
Upon entering, beautiful Egyptian music greeted us, reminiscent of Oum Kalthoum's vibes. For those unfamiliar, Oum Kalthoum was an iconic Egyptian singer, songwriter, and film actress from the 1920s to the 1970s, often referred to as "The Voice of Egypt" and "Egypt's Fourth Pyramid."
This is an awesome painting that my family actually owns that is a depiction of Umm Kalthoum by George Bahgoury.
Anyway, back to the restaurant... The decor was completely next level; we immediately felt transported to a different environment. It exuded a homely, Egyptian ambiance with intriguing artwork adorning the walls. We were the only patrons in the restaurant, which added to the feeling of being guests in someone’s home rather than customers in a traditional eatery. Instead of menus, the owner approached our table and detailed all the available appetizers and entrees, essentially reciting the entire menu as if sharing specials.
Before placing our order, my mom inquired about the captivating tables, sparking a tour of the restaurant led by the owner, Moustafa el-Sayed. He provided an in-depth explanation of everything, revealing himself as an incredible artist who not only designed and built the restaurant but also adorned it with his original artwork. While I'm not adept at art criticism, I'll try to convey Mustafa's creations. He intricately tiled the floors with patterns imbued with symbolism related to Egypt's history. Mosaic tile patterns adorned the exterior, echoing the same motifs. Mustafa seamlessly integrated Egyptian themes and perspectives into his work, from a handmade chandelier to a wooden ceiling installation crafted from cut picture frames.
Mustafa defied the stereotype of a typical Egyptian; his calm and poised demeanor exuded a comforting aura that alleviated stress for everyone around him.
The dining experience felt more akin to being in someone’s home than a traditional restaurant. Familiar scents soon filled the air, prompting us to identify dishes like Koshary by their distinctive aromas. The meal was authentically delicious; it had been ages since I last had Molokhia, a dish made from jute leaves, served over rice. Mustafa even presented us with rice shaped into three pyramids—a thoughtful touch.
The attention to detail extended to the quantity of food offered. When we ran low on rice, Mustafa didn't push additional menu items but instead offered more rice and Koshary, ensuring our satisfaction without any pressure to spend more. This personalized approach made the experience feel more like a genuine human connection than a mere transaction.
As Mustafa toured us through his restaurant, his pride in it was palpable. He proudly displayed books featuring his restaurant, including one chronicling various "little neighborhoods" like Little Italy and Little Egypt, with a glowing review of Mombar. He also shared a magazine from Japan featuring his restaurant among recommended cultural spots in New York City, highlighting its international recognition.
This achievement is all the more remarkable considering Japan's reputation for craftsmanship and detail-oriented excellence. Mustafa has crafted for himself a remarkable life; his restaurant serves not only as a showcase of his artwork but also as a tribute to his country. After seven years of dedication, dining at Mombar truly felt like a special experience—one I highly recommend.
Although I didn't capture photos of the food, I did document the overall experience with some photos and videos.
QUOTES FROM RANDOMS ON INSTAGRAM
These are some other people’s words on the internet about this restaurant. I do not know these people. I simply found them on instagram when I searched about the restaurant. These were just the first four that I found.
“My favorite restaurant in nyc is Mombar a stunning tiny Egyptian restaurant in Astoria that has been there for 20 years. @bing_guan & i had koshari, ful, lamb, & georgian wine we brought. There is no menu but what is fresh that day & it really feels like you are sitting in someone’s lovely living room. Please go & support this lovely spot.”
-@pchza
“This is one of the most authentic Egyptian dining experiences we’ve had in NYC… and everything from the cuisine to the decor is made by one man: Moustafa el-Sayed. 🇪🇬Much love to @ranaabdelhamid for putting us on!"
📍 Mombar
25-22 Steinway St, Queens, NY 11103”
-@righteouseats.
“Great restaurant, just a tip… It’s one guy (he’s amazing) so don’t go with a large group and don’t go there starving. It takes times but it’s worth it. He removed every single bone from the fish and puts a lot of work into the food. And cash only.”
-@jas_sand